Friday 31 October 2008

Radlická

People file out brisk but orderly from the train station and head straight to the office building across the square. It's as if the revolving door is an extractor fan, gently sucking all the people to their desks. The whole building resembles a machine, not something sooty, Victorian and cruel, rather a stylish over-blown polished gadget with silver grills, wood paneling and gleaming balustrades for handles. It looks so fresh and ultramodern that despite its size it would be discarded within a year.

The commuters don't suit their stride. They're not worker ants encased in black suits. One of them has a suede cowboy hat and matching vest; others are in puffy bundas in preparation for the weekend or just because its cold and these jackets are comfortable; some are dressed for Friday night drinks. A couple of them have suitcases on wheels. One guy strays from the line as he reads a book. Only a skater rolls against the flow. He merely adds a long invisible score beneath their movement.

Yes, it's morning. A deviation from one of the rules, but an excusable and even inevitable one. The days are getting shorter and the thought of being alone at an unfmailiar metro station in the dark is not appealing. Plus a different time will bring a change of focus, though at the moment it seems are more interesting in the evening when there is that great collective release.

Anything of interest has given the station a wide berth. I can understand why. In the five years I've lived here, I have never been to Radlická. If it weren't for the blog, I imagine many more years would pass before I would visit. Apart from the office block and a small gilt statue, which I assume isn't real gold, there's not much.

Across from the office block is a passage way. On its walls tags and graffiti compete for space. Through the intersecting curves is the ubiquitous 'Fuck Off'. How much longer before it loses all meaning? In the future it will be an everyday expression. We'll send it to each other on greeting cards. Why not? It's on t-shirts. I just hope we will be able to emote future swear words so well.

Some bold soul has also professed his love for a girl called Šarka (Miliju tě, Šarko). I wonder if Šarka will be able to find this declaration of love among the tangle of characters.

I went through the passage earlier. It seemed the least popular route and remembering my Frost I decided to go that way before heading back to write. At Radlická neither path was worth taking. Beyond the passage is another modern building with fixed shutters, which are no doubt fixed at the optimal angle to reduce the sun's rays in summer, but which deny the tenants the opportunity to throw them open. It is a rigid shell, something to occupy not live in.

Around the corner from this building, I found a dead cat. Its fur was matted with melted frost. I am perhaps too inquisitive by nature and stopped to have a look. On hikes, I often stop to point out some carcass to G., who is far down the path, determined not looking back. The cat has no visible signs of injury. This was when I felt horrified. It couldn't have been a car. The only question was who? It was that feeling that I had when I came to sit here and start today's record.

This is the furthest I've been in the direction of Zličín along the yellow line, which I should refer to as Line B, but never do and so confuse most people when I discuss the metro with them. Everyone knows it by the letters. I can only remember the colours.

I wonder if being here only highlights the artifice of this blog. Other people write about the things they really experience. I place myself in an unnatural situation. Most Fridays before this I would be at home or today, I would have slept in – or read, rather than leave the house to come here. I'm not a part of this. I'm watching from a distance, a distance I don't know yet how to bridge.

I want to achieve this end without stepping out of the conditions I've set myself. To bastardize a saying, it is the frame that makes the picture and frames tend to be precisely measured and suited to some purpose. My frames are the stations, for the moment any way. They liberate me because they bring me to places I wouldn't ordinarily come to. The dilemma is if I should be part of the drama I see unfold and certainly in a way that doesn't involve some act of bad faith – no interviews, no spectacle.

A group of pre-school aged children pass holding hands and wearing bright pastel winter jackets. They also go via the passage way. I wonder how their teacher will explain the cat to them.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I am beginning to feel like the annoying guy who always puts his hand up first to ask questions after a talk. However... some thoughts here that I wanted to ask you about... Perhaps I am blundering into this and being too explicit, but I'm interested as to why you say you are not really experiencing (as much as all the other people rushing through the tunnels). I understand the frame that a lens or a notebook implies, the distance or the fourth wall that it sets up, but isn't this just a device, a metaphor that we can accept or not (I realise after writing this how naive that sounds, I know metaphors are things we live by)? For all we know the commuters think we're doing our taxes. But I know this feeling you describe: when I sat outside the Opera House for a whole morning counting how many times it was photographed it felt very strange to stand up and climb the steps, like climbing onto a stage after a play, now palpably aware of the artifice of the theatre set, feeling like there are eyes on you. I definitely felt like I was transgressing, crossing a threshold, I could feel myself pass through it. Perhaps it depends on who
is doing the observing. The Godlike view of CCTV implies no kind of artifice: there we're all reduced to flat grey and black customers, loiterers, and potential suspects. It is hard for me to accept that those operators are "experiencing" something of the scene - though possibly some people would argue they are - completely removed and sealed away from any possibility of risk or danger. But at the same time I have heard people
say they never scribble notes at performances or gigs when they are reviewing, claiming 'experience first!', that what is important is
what lasts. On one hand I'm hip to this but on the other I find it hard to accept, perhaps simply because I always write notes, and not only if I'm reviewing something, and in no way feel that I am missing out or not experiencing things fully. The suggestion offends some only ever vaguely articulated idea that I carry around with me that writing is not something removed from everyday life, that it is contiguous to all those other
activities we fill days with.

I am very much enjoying your blog, as this comment hopefully attests.. tim

(Oh, also, colour is much more memorable than letters: I reckon I could
could still name a good bunch of the Underground lines by colour even though I haven't looked at the diagram in a year. If you were here you could test me.)

Closely Observed Train Stations said...

Don't apologise for this. I welcome the engagement, so continue to raise your figurative hand. I am a teacher after all.

(Before I respond, to anyone who else who might be reading this, Tim and I went through some of this via email. Tim's comments are as they appear. Mine are a little different, though I did rehash the comment about raising hands. I'm mentioning this as it is as I feel it is all part the commentary.)

I don't disagree with the idea that writing is part of life, and I wasn't attacking blogs when I made the comment: "I wonder if being here only highlights the artifice of this blog. Other people write about the things they really experience. I place myself in an unnatural situation." I was speaking only about what I was doing and as I try to capture my thoughts at that moment, this was what I wrote down.

The use of the term frame was simply a way to justify to myself what I'm doing, that I'm using that stations to give my thoughts and expereinces structure. However, I can't get away from the fact that those experiences are imposed no matter what metaphor I give them. This was also writtne as I was thinking of this from the point of view of readers, pre-empting some heckling. I think, I wrote this in the email.

I don't feel that what I'm observing is less real. The stations don't feel like stages or sets. They are what they are in that moment - it's just that I've afforded them more attention. My concern was the unreality of the act of me being there - not the station or writing. I see I'm starting to repeat myself and maybe give too much mileage to a despondent thought at a featureless train station rather than an literary philosophy. I certainly wasn't writing to suggest I was giving in. I'm glad there are people who enjoy it.

Concerning the colours, I was aware of their mnemonics. My point was that despite this Czechs, or at least Praguers, never refer to the stations by colour only letter. Though I may speak the language, it's little things like this that reveal me as an outsider.