Friday 24 October 2008

Chodov

An immense cement and stone shopping centre. A facade of glass looking onto the car park. Bright lines and brighter shop signs inside. A great slab of prosperity and consumerism on the outskirts of Prague. It's so big it straddles a motorway. A perspex covered walkway joins the two halves. The train station which leads to it couldn't be more different. Light brown half-cylinder tiles decorate the walls. Rows of broken rain pipes come to mind.

My plan was to sit inside at a bar called Potrefená Husa and watch people come in. A snap portrait of each. I didn't consider this place because I'm endorsing the establishment. It's a characterless chain pub and it serves one of my least favourite beers. However, it's the very first place you can sit as you enter, which would mean that I don't have to go further inside. We all know what shopping centres are about.

Another reason I was going to sit there was because of the name. A few months ago a student asked me to help with the translation. The name literally means 'struck goose'. Suffice to say this meant nothing to me. He went on to explain that the term was used when someone creates alarm over nothing. “Henny Penny,” I suggested. They are both poultry after all.

Two days later G. came to me with the same request. Astounded at the coincidence and pleased that I was informed I told her I knew what it meant. She said I was completely wrong. The name came from the saying 'Potrefená husa se ovzala.” meaning “The struck goose cried out.”. It is used when a topic comes up and someone present starts to defend him/herself. For example, imagine you're talking about the environment and apropos of nothing one of your friends starts to tell everyone how much they recycle and how they don't use private transport. He or she might be accused of being a 'potrefená husa'. The best I could come up with was 'one doth protest too much,' though I realise this is more limited in use.

I'm probably a potrefená husa for explaining why I'm not at this pub.

Instead I'm by a run-down fast food stand which is part of an older shopping centre. It's the ugly cousin of the Chodov centre, Růže – Rose. Faded obviously.

Across from the bench I'm sitting at is a footbridge. Initially I thought it promised more than an afternoon at a shopping centre. I took the underground tunnels eagerly hoping to find a park, tracks and maybe deserted alleys. Before I reached it I saw a bronze coloured statue of an archetypal worker. Crimson run from his eyes. At first I thought he was weeping rust but then saw it the dry streams coming from the helmet. Someone had chosen the wrong colour to vandalise this guy. It made hims seem more heroic. They were not tears but sweat.

On the bridge three young guys were leaning over the barrier and pointing at the outbound traffic. One of them excitedly called his friends over to the side where the incoming traffic was. Here they go I thought. They're going to spit. Very clever guys. Then I saw one of them remove a camera and felt a little ashamed for making another snap judgment. They were only doing their own bit of recording.

The bridge lead to the top of a cul-de-sac. I couldn't go any further. There wasn't even a path leading along the banks of the main road. As I headed back the one who called to his friends spat on to a bus. A friend had the camera ready to capture his feat.

The bench is also opposite a bus stop. The people are mostly heading inside. It would be unfair to say they are pouring inside. Despite the cold air, they are taking their time. Once the bus pulls away, the stand is deserted. It stays this way for a few minutes. People start to queue one by one. It's a few more minutes before one of the guys frustratingly shouts in the direction of a non-existent bus. He sees me writing and falls silent. I may as well be standing here with a camera.

A woman comes with a pizza box jutting square and straight from her side. I can smell the contents.

This is soon covered by the cigarette smoke of a second woman. She's just far enough away so the smell is more alluring than repulsive. Five years ago, I would've been sitting here either patting myself down to find my lighter or brushing the ash from my shirt-front.

The smoking woman notice me writing too. She's smirking and looking askance. Je divnej, she's thinking.

Behind me at the tables near the food stand, tables I was too slow to get, old blokes are unwinding with small plastic cups of spirits. 'Blokes' is too Australian, but they resemble the 'blokes' I knew as a child, friends of my fathers I regarded with equal repulsion and admiration. It also depended on distance.

I suppose at this moment I've joined them. Like me they're recording the last moments of this day, imagining some other life, seeing lost opportunities in every fresh face to come down the path.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

This is not related to the post but I want to say that your blog has adapted itself into my weekly routine so that when I see another post it's my indication that another week has passed. They pass so quickly !

I may have asked you this before, but could you put a map of the Prague metro up on the blog somewhere. It'd be nice to see it's shape, and how you're working your way over it.

Tim

Closely Observed Train Stations said...

I did try but it didn't turn out so well and I had to take the map down. I need to spend some time fiddling around with the page to work out how to do it properly. Hopefully, something will be up during the week.

Anonymous said...

I see the problem - I want one that I can click on so it expands to take up the size of the screen, so that I can plot your course. I like the pattern of the Prague Metro - it has a roundededness that Sydney doesn't because of the coast.

Closely Observed Train Stations said...

The small one on my profile is merely a contigency. I'm not very good with computers. Once I work out how to install something bigger, maybe something with its own icon - the novelty of all this hasn't worn off yet - you'll be able to track my journeys.

Anonymous said...

I like how vast, new, shiny shopping centres sometimes have an older, shabbier one nearby. Their predecessors. Once they would have seemed as impressive/monstrous as the 21st century ones seem now.

Closely Observed Train Stations said...

An oft recycled story from my childhood concerns the torturous shopping expeditions my mum, pregnant with my sister, made to a shop which stood near where a a large glass topped consumer cathedral now stands.

I was two years old at the time and by all accounts obstreperous and willful. The shop was a large corrugated shed and in the retelling is always infernally hot throughout the year and filled with flies.

It had a name like Thrifty Joe's or Cheap Jim's or Shouty Eric's, a typical budget outlet. Mum says there was bush all around and the carpark was of loose gravel. It stood for a while even when the first version of the shopopolis went up.

They knocked it down to build our local library.